People & Places
Living in the Bay of Islands
A popular holiday destination it may be, but should you consider a permanent move to the Bay of Islands? David Fuller finds out all about living in the Bay of Islands
As far as holiday spots go the Bay of Islands is undoubtedly one of New Zealand's most popular destinations. Boasting stunning scenery, spectacular sandy beaches and surrounded by brilliant blue sea, figures from Statistics New Zealand show that 364,148 visitors stayed in some form of guest accommodation in the Bay of Islands during 2005. But what is it like to actually live in the district which is made up of 144 islands and located in the Northland region of New Zealand's North Island?
Very good indeed, if what Brit Laura Jerome says is anything to go by. "I like to think that my husband and I will stay here forever as we both love it so much," she says. "There are so many good things about it – the weather, how beautiful it is all around us – we're constantly overwhelmed by the place." Laura left Glasgow for a new life close to the Bay of Island's biggest town, Kerikeri – a place which has less than 5,000 residents – just under a year ago. The main reason for the move being because "my husband was looking at pictures of New Zealand and said 'I want to live there!'" Thankfully for Laura the experience of actually living there has proved to be every bit as appealing as pictures of the district suggested it would be.
While Laura admits to being unsure of what to expect before she emigrated to NZ she's been pleasantly surprised. "It's strange, as I didn't really have any expectations," she explains. "I thought I would just take things as they came, which is pretty much what we've done. "We have changed our lives quite dramatically with our move here. In Glasgow we lived right in the heart of the west end, my husband ran his own business and I taught children with autism. Here he works for somebody else for only three days a week, and we bought a small farm which I take care of, so it's just completely different. Probably the only expectation that I had was that we would have less stress and we have certainly achieved that."
Kerikeri – a town where 'so good they named it twice' remarks are often heard and repeated – is located a three-hour drive north-east of Auckland. It is well known for its local arts and crafts scene. Pottery, woollen goods, paintings and kauri – a species of evergreen tree native to the North Island – products are all made and sold in the town and this, along with horticulture, has long been an integral part of the area's industry. As the biggest town in the Bay of Islands, Kerikeri also boasts a larger selection of shops, restaurants and various other amenities than anywhere else in the district. And with Auckland fairly close by and Whangarei only 80 kilometres south, reaching a destination which bears considerable more selection in retail outlets is not that difficult.
Laura has certainly found living in a relatively small town to her liking. "Everyone seems very relaxed up here. The friendliness of all the people we have met is fantastic, as is the small town feel – everyone knows you and although some people probably wouldn't like that I love how the neighbours just drop in – I have had more people pop in to see us in the nine months we've been here than in the 12 years we were in Glasgow. With all this in mind it's little wonder that in December 2000 North and South Magazine voted Kerikeri as 'New Zealand's Top Small Town'.
A historical district
Kerikeri played an important role in New Zealand's formation. It was the site of the first mission station – set up to teach natives western culture – in New Zealand, and it is for this very reason that the town is sometimes referred to as the 'cradle of the nation.' New Zealand's two oldest European buildings, the Stone Store and Kemp House, are both located in the town. Not that Kerikeri is the only place in the Bay of Islands to be of historical significance to New Zealand. The whole district is otherwise known as 'the birthplace of New Zealand'. It was the signing of the treaty of Waitangi – which is located in Paihia, the Bay's main tourism mecca – between British officers and Maori chiefs in February 1840 which first gave the British sovereignty of New Zealand, thus signalling the start of the country's existence in its current form.
Paihia is around a 20-kilometre drive south of Kerikeri. With a population of approximately just 1,800, you could be forgiven for thinking that the small seaside town will have little of great interest there. But due to mass tourism the town is actually extremely vibrant throughout most of the year, often belying its small town status. The town enjoys a buzzing café and restaurant scene, and offers its residents and tourists alike a melting pot of history, culture, adventure and romance, thanks to its colonial remains and stunning scenery.
Brit Jim Drummond lived in Paihia before relocating to Thailand, and set up the website bayof islands.net while he was there. He is of no doubt as to why British immigrants may wish to consider living in the town. "It has a good vibe to it and the weather is better – hotter, but similar enough to Britain to not freak anyone out," he says. "The best things about Paihia are the islands that surround it and the outdoor lifestyle. It's pretty standard to meet up with mates in the evenings and have a barby or a beer outside. At the weekends a lot of people hit the water for a spot of fishing or exploring. "It also offers a healthy lifestyle and people there are fairly open to new business ideas," Jim adds.
Paihia is the main location from which to explore many of the district's islands, and it is not unusual to see dolphins, whales, penguins or gannets off the town's coast. And while Jim freely admits that not everything about living in the Bay of Islands is perfect nor, he says, is it at all bad. "Paihia can be pretty cheesy but there are some very beautiful parts away from the crowds of tourists," he continues. "If I had to pick one worst thing about living there it would be the winter. Winter is without a doubt slightly depressing up there. There's not many tourists (which the local economy relies heavily upon) and there's some rain and chill (but it doesn't get too cold). "Overall the best far outweighs the worst, though," he confirms.
Just outside Paihia, Russell is another interesting small town in the Bay of Islands vicinity. Hard as it may be to believe, Russell, a small town with a population of just over 800 people, was the country's first capital, chosen by Governor William Hobson as an interim capital in 1840 for only one year before it was replaced by Auckland, itself eventually succeeded by Wellington in the 1860s. Despite having fewer than 1,000 residents, Russell, perhaps surprisingly, boasts a wide selection of amenities including two supermarkets, a bakery, a butchers, a liquor store, a video rental place, a hardware store, a newsagents, a plethora of arts, crafts and antique shops, and a good selection of cafés and restaurants. Like Paihia and Kerikeri, Russell is well geared towards tourism – passenger ferries operate regularly to Paihia – and its population swells during the peak holiday season.
Work hassles
One problem that you could conceivably find should you choose to live in the Bay of Islands area is finding suitable employment. "It's difficult to say how easy it is to find employment there," says Jim. "There are a lot of migrant workers/backpackers around which means a lot of people are willing to work for not all that much money. "Having said that most people who stick around do seem to get something, but it's quite hard to get into a specific job area. Fruitpicking in Kerikeri is the classic, then bar work/cleaning in Paihia."
Jim continues: "If we take myself and two other Brits who are currently in Thailand with me but have previously lived in Paihia as a sample, then one worked as a checkout girl in the supermarket (and went back to England after a year), one worked as a dolphin cameraman then as a day-sailing boat host (and has almost completed his citizenship), while I worked as a cameraman/deckie/hostie on an overnight cruise boat. "The area is mainly tourism-based so anything related is usually required somewhere, especially in the (Kiwi) summer months. Perhaps even more needed, however, are construction workers to provide for the tourism industry. "Given the Kiwi habit of wooden houses, chippies and painters are probably the most in demand."
Laura, meanwhile, says that the chances of finding a suitable job in the district is likely to depend on what it is you actually do, but agrees that many will have to be patient before they find ideal employment. "My husband is a dentist and was in so much demand it was unbelievable," she recalls. "He emailed about 18 dentists in Northland before coming out and was offered ten jobs on the spot. We came out last June so that he could meet up with them and see where and who he liked. "It was never the plan for me to work outside of the farm once we got here, however, I have actually been offered three jobs! "I think that perhaps the Bay of Islands isn't the easiest place to find a job initially, but once you're here it's a small community and you do get to know a lot of people," Laura adds.
One way to find out if you stand a good chance of finding employment in the field you wish to work in in NZ is to check the country's Immediate Skills Shortages List for the skills currently in demand in the Auckland/Northland region. While these skills won't necessarily be needed in the Bay of Islands itself, there is a good chance they will be in an area it is easy and close enough to commute to.
As far as the cost of living in the Bay of Islands goes, Jim estimates that it may be slightly more expensive than in other similar-sized districts in NZ, due to its popularity with tourists, but still "cheap compared to the UK". But then, if you do plan to make a new life for yourself in the Bay of Islands the reason isn't likely to be financial or due to work possibilities. In fact you are more likely to be drawn to the area for lifestyle purposes or maybe even because, like the Jeromes, you like the look of the place. After all, going on instinct certainly hasn't harmed Laura. "Both myself and my husband have settled fantastically well," she says. "We set off looking at this as a big adventure and we always said that if one or both of us wasn't happy we would move elsewhere. But we felt at home instantly. We met some lovely people very quickly, and once our dog arrived life really was complete! "I definitely can't see us going back to the UK, ever."
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