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People & Places

The natural beauty of Vancouver Island
A quick guide to British Columbia

In this whistlestop tour around a vast expanse of Canada that is four times the size of the UK, we offer you a glimpse of BC life in our quick guide to British Columbia

Very Vancouver
BC's most populous city (2 million), Vancouver's uniqueness lies in its gorgeous meeting of gleaming metropolis and pristine wilderness, so be sure to walk from the city centre to Stanley Park. A 405-hectare cedar forest edged with back-to-nature beaches, Stanley Park is the place to come for a stroll, jog, skate or swim amidst stunning scenery. Avowedly cosmopolitan, Granville Island is the artistic hub of the city. Here, you'll find all the artists and market produce you could ever dream of, so make sure you indulge in Pacific Northwest cuisine – including the freshest salmon you'll ever taste.

Those who consider shopping as important to their survival as breathing will be pleased to note that there are plenty of options open to them. Kitsilano is an easy walk from Granville Island, and is the place to come for a hip and indeed hippy range of clothing and books. For both a more mainstream selection and row upon row of high-end boutiques, try Robson Street.

And continuing the on-foot theme, it is only a short stroll from Robson Street to the 174-metre Harbour Centre Tower, where 360-degree views across the city and far beyond can be gawped at. Once you're back on firm ground, another short walk will take you to Chinatown and Dr Sun Yat-Sen Park, where an intricate garden ripe with meaning awaits your interpretation. It's a great oasis of calm in the heart of the city, even if skyscrapers seem to peer over the white walls for a peek.

Don't leave without ...
* Taking to the water: Getting around and beyond Vancouver in one of the fleet of ferries that plough the waters of the surrounding Burrard Inlet and Strait of Georgia is a must. My personal favourite are the bath-tub sized vessels that chug across from the bottom of Burrard Street to Granville Island and Vanier Park.
* Exploring the Island: If you're not taking a float plane from Coal Harbour – and perhaps you should – Vancouver Island can also be reached by ferry in 60-90 minutes. So, if you'd like to explore the florally festooned city of Victoria, watch or even kayak with whales, see bears, be blown by the salty breeze in Pacific Rim National Park Reserve or relax in the end-of-the-road setting of Tofino, be sure to ink Vancouver Island into your itinerary.
* Trying outdoor activities, come show or shine: Stunningly beautiful in winter, with several metres of snow to cushion any skiing mishaps, the pristine resort of Whistler also has biking and hiking trails galore to detain the summer visitor. Even getting to and from Whistler is a pleasure, with the route from Vancouver climbing from the navy blue sea, along rivers and around mountain spurs towards the great BC sky.  No wonder it's called 'The Sea to Sky Highway'.
* Going back in time: So, history's boring, is it? Nothing but dusty books and musty teachers? You clearly haven't been to Barkerville, a restored gold rush town just south of Prince George and a hefty two-day drive from Vancouver. Here, history comes alive with a big smile on its face courtesy of the Historic Park's suitably costumed staff. The Irish newspaperman is a hoot, but the school teacher won't stand for any nonsense – and will even check to see if your nails are clean!
* Admiring totem poles: BC doesn't just offer European culture. From Stanley Park and UBC's Anthropology Museum to the the new Nk-Mip Desert Cultural Centre in Osoyoos and the spooky lines of totem poles adorning the remote Queen Charlotte Islands, BC is a world-class crash course in First Nations culture.

Eating out
Don't make the mistake of thinking British Columbia is all about pancakes and maple syrup, although there's plenty of that as well. The large Asian population in BC has inevitably shaped the culinary extravaganza on offer and be on the look out for fusion restaurants and a wealth of exotic places to chow down.

The bounty of natural, fresh ingredients available also means whatever you eat is also likely to be incredibly tasty. Be sure to check out the Harbour Centre Tower in Vancouver with its revolving restaurant, and seafood lovers should head for Stefano's restaurant on Vancouver Island. In Victoria, you are spoilt for choice when it comes to fresh fish, but locals recommend Ferris' Oyster Bar on Yates Street for the best ambiance.

Nature's best
There's nowhere else in the world that nature has been more bountiful to than British Columbia. From magnificent mountain ranges to classic coastal scenery and verdant, leafy valleys, BC has the lot. In fact, so wide is the range of scenic highlights that just choosing one of each almost seems criminal. But, having said that, you'll have to go some to beat Yoho National Park for glaciated beauty. Soaring peaks, swooping valleys and legions of spruce trees reflected in the mirror-like waters of Emerald Lake make Yoho a winner. For gentler surroundings, the green, pleasant, and fruitful land of the Okanagan Valley could be just the place – and the wine's not bad, either. Down on the coast, a winding trip through the Inside Passage reveals jaw-dropping fjord after fjord, as well as priceless glimpses of Orcas patrolling the waters, while the adventurous types looking for a less beaten track could join a group tracking the rare and elusive Spirit Bear.

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22 March 2007