People & Places
Poitou-Charentes is so appealing
Poitou-Charentes is now becoming a firm favourite for holiday homebuyers and permanent movers seeking sun and serenity. Kate Baddeley discovers what each department has to offer
Picture Poitou-Charentes and the portrait of a field of yellow sunflowers set against quaint shuttered farmhouses comes to mind, a scenic view most probably discovered looking out your car window en-route to the South of France.
Situated on the Atlantic coast, between the Loire Valley and the Bordeaux vineyards, Poitou-Charentes is one of the sunniest parts of the French western coast. Its pleasant climate – not quite as hot as the south, but a lot warmer than the north – unspoilt landscape, and 300-mile-long coastline have made the region a popular choice with in-the-know Brits looking for cheap rural properties in the sun and now, with the arrival of budget flights to local airports, the region is becoming even more tempting. In fact, estate agents report over half of their enquiries from Brits are from those looking to make a permanent move to this part of France.
Rod Lamb, resident of northern Charente and a property agent with Immobilier Services in Ruffec, explains that the region's appeal stems from the climate. "We enjoy our own micro-climate which offers the second highest hours of sunshine in France", he explains. "The region offers something for everyone. The tranquillity to sit back, take it easy and enjoy the typical tiled roof and sunflowered vistas. For the more active there is almost unlimited paths, tracks and roads for walking cycling or running. Here we are about two hours from the sea but within easy reach of the rivers Charente and Vienne, both of which offer ideal locations for swimming and waterborne activities."
The region is divided into four departments and each department is within quick and easy reach of an airport offering low-cost flights to and from the UK – Tours, La Rochelle, Nantes and Poitiers. If you'd rather travel by land then the TGV train service will take you to Poitiers, La Rochelle or Angoulême. "The TGV and Eurostar connections can get you to central London within seven hours and with the improved motorway routes we are also within seven hours of all the cross Channel ferryports", says Lamb.
However, it's not just sunshine and easy access that make Poitou-Charentes so irresistible to Brits. The coast consists of fine sandy beaches, backed by fragrant pine forests. Seaside resorts such as La Rochelle, Royan and the islands of Oléron, Aix and Ré are as good as any beaches along the French Riviera but without the glamour and perfectly suited to sunbathing, sandcastle-building families.
Inland, the scene is one of serenity, with vast horizons and wooded valleys, the soothing tranquillity of the canals, the valley of Vienne, the foothills of Charente and the Cognac vineyards. You'll quickly find traditional France with villages where agriculture dominates, where the primary occupation is a farmer or wine-producer. Rural communities can be found in towns like Angloulême and Saintes, here you'll also find the striking Romanesque churches that once ministered to the medieval pilgrims rooted in the landscape.
It's no wonder that prices in many areas of the Poitou-Charentes are rising fast and all of the region's four departments – Charente, Vienne, Deux-Sèvres, and Charente-Maritime – have something to offer British purchasers. Each department has its own regional identity, largely as a result of its geographical location.
Prices in the coastal department of Charente-Maritime have doubled in the last decade. It's the most sophisticated of all the departments – you'll find more yachts in the marinas than traditional fishing boats these days – but you'll still find family beaches, where you can indulge in water sports.
La Rochelle is often described as the most attractive seaside town in France, steeped in culture, with fantastic cuisine, ancient arcaded streets, and empty beaches. La Rochelle has the largest marina on the Atlantic coast and an impressive aquarium. There are many chic boutiques and restaurants around its small harbour.
Another of the department's pretty seaside towns is Royan with its mile upon mile of superb sandy beaches, dotted with coves protected from the wind. It was rebuilt in the 1950s after wartime damage and is very representative of the modernist architecture of the time.
As pretty as Charente-Maritime is you're unlikely to find a bargain there, which may be why fewer Brits live there. If your budget is tight then you'll find that property is considerably cheaper inland than near the coast. So where does Lamb suggest Brits seeking a home there should look? "The whole of the region is popular with those from the UK but I would say that, compared with the Charente-Maritime, cheaper house prices are offered in the more inland department, Charente. it has had more 'press' than the Vienne or Deux Sevres", explains Lamb.
Charente was one of the original 83 departments created during the French Revolution, and the departments history is on display everywhere in the historic towns and quiet villages dotted with vast castles. Charente is for those of you who are after a property amongst the peaceful sloping vineyards and sleepy riverside villages.
Angoulême is the departmental capital, and as a result has a strong rental market which compensates for the slightly higher property prices. The town of Cognac is the region's most famous town thanks to the spirit of the same name distilled in and around the town. It is a fairly small town with narrow streets lined with 15th-century buildings. The north of the department is where you will find cheaper property in small towns such as Ruffec. House prices in this area have risen considerably in the last three years but it is still possible to find value for money. Of course, as Lamb points out, to establish whether or not prices are high would depend on where you are comparing. "I would say that in our area houses that are priced realistically are selling in what is, at the moment, a buyers' market", he says. "A barn to renovate would cost around 50,000 euros, and a small house to renovate would cost around 65,000 euros. A house with three to four bedrooms renovated to a good standard with some land will cost around 200,000 euros. We have larger properties ranging from 400,000 to 850,000 euros for a small château."
Some areas of Poitou-Charentes have become popular with Parisians looking for holiday homes in recent years, but it is hard to pick out just one town or area as being the region's most up-and-coming destination. "All areas still offer a wealth of properties for sale and the more of these older properties that are bought up and renovated the more prosperous the communes become due to increased tax revenues", says Lamb. He continues, "A proportion of these revenues goes towards improving the commune".
Lamb reports that there has also been an increase in people coming into the area and buying a plot of land and having their 'dream' house built, "which is the solution to the old problem of finding the house you want in the location that you want." The lesser known and landlocked department of Deux-Sèvres is certainly well worth considering if you want a country retreat, and your money will certainly go further. It has no major cities and so is not on the tourist trail, but those looking to relocate will find friendly inhabitants and a relaxed way of life.
The varied landscape crossed by rivers provides ample opportunity for leisure pursuits and a good selection of farm and village houses. The unspoilt department of Vienne, famously associated with the writing and publishing of books, is another picturesque department with reasonable property prices. The town of Montmorillon, with its medieval town centre, is already very popular with British buyers.
One thing to bear in mind is that Poitou-Charentes has one of the worst water problems in France; the region has faced water restrictions every summer for the past decade – something those of you from the south of England should be used to. While there's not much water there's plenty of wine and foodie delights to please the palate in Poitou-Charentes, though. Fresh and cheap seafood, especially oysters, can be found in markets across the region, and other delicacies include goat's cheeses and eels – which you'll certainly need to wash down with a glass of Cognac.
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