People & Places
Sydney city guide
By following city guidebooks many visitors miss out on some of Sydney’s hidden highlights, says Matt French
Former Sydney resident Matt French takes a trip off the beaten track to see what the city has to offer besides the Opera House. Australia's largest city is far more than the sum of the Opera House, Harbour Bridge and Bondi Beach, but by straying from the must-see checklist, visitors fear they will meet with the mediocre and miss out on the exceptional. All that is required is a sense of adventure to discover the hidden gems that offer an alternative experience to the list of usual suspects.
Darling Harbour and Circular Quay provide a glimpse of the city, but for those wanting to dig deeper into life in Sydney what better way to begin than soaking up the atmosphere in its friendly café culture. Relax with a sweet treat in one of the many cafés in the bohemian suburb of Glebe. Some of these coffee shops are also bookstores, and while browsing your favourite read you cannot help but smile at the locals engaged in friendly conversations all around you. These interactions reveal the warm nature of this city that you will witness time and again if you wander into its side streets. A ten-minute bus ride from the Town Hall, Glebe buzzes on a Saturday when the market attracts a cross-section of Sydney society. Artists, designers and craftspeople display their unusual wares and if you are not afraid to haggle you will almost certainly come away with a bargain.
For an authentic Australian dining experience escape the entertainment hub at Darling Harbour and head for Doyles restaurant. Have lunch at the seafood restaurant at Watsons Bay rather than the newer incarnation at Circular Quay. After a ferry trip to the quiet bay, opt for an outdoor table at the beachside eatery looking across the water and sailboats to a pretty view of the city skyline. Doyles uses the best quality fresh fish, which is typical of the Australian dedication to local produce and a guarantee of a tasty meal. Anything from the menu is a good choice, although the Fisherman's Platter, complete with succulent prawns, lobster mornay and calamari is recommended. Alternatively for those with a sweet tooth, head for the Max Brenner Chocolate Bar at the top of Oxford Street, Paddington. This deli is a shrine where chocoholics worship – you will not be disappointed.
Australians are also exceptional at sport; and that counts for both playing and watching. Even if you are not a die-hard sports fan a trip to the Sydney Cricket Ground (SCG) to watch an AFL game of Aussie Rules 'footie' is a worthwhile experience. You may not understand the rules, but that is not important – you will get swept away with the hype and friendly banter between rival fans. This is savoury fun for the whole family, although for the full effect try a traditional Aussie pie washed down with a cold beer.
With hotspots Luna Park, the Bridge Walk and Sky Tower centrally located, many people do not spend enough time exploring Sydney's outer limits.
Try to hire the charming romantic-comedy film Oyster Farmer before you fly to whet your appetite for an area in the north of Sydney. There are plenty of endearing Australian characters to hold your attention in this film, but the real star is the captivating Hawkesbury River. Lingering aerial shots show off the beauty of this winding river flowing through unspoilt woodland rising up from the water's edge. To experience these views head up to Palm Beach, Sydney's northernmost suburb. The journey is one of the nicest road trips out of the city centre. You drive alongside a continuous strip of 20 or so spectacular beaches, all of which are less busy than Bondi and favoured by locals. Few cities on earth enjoy such close proximity to this wealth of gorgeous sea and sand. From Palm Beach Wharf a pleasure boat takes you on a gentle cruise up the Hawkesbury to a picturesque picnicking spot at Bobbin Head. In this tranquil setting you cannot help but ponder how you are within easy reach of the heart of a major city, and yet amazingly nature towers above you on all sides. Combine this trip with a pilgrimage to Palm Beach itself, which soap addicts will know as the location for Home and Away. It is just around the corner from the boat launch and you may be lucky and see some filming.
As an alternative to venturing north you could also head inland. This may seem foolish with miles of coastline to see, but consider exploring a different variety of beautiful scenery. The World Heritage Blue Mountains are only 90 minutes journey by road. Taking their name from the haze over the scenery caused by eucalyptus trees, the 'Blues' are a stunning setting for hiking trails to suit every fitness level. This region features in most guidebooks and many lookout points are crowded. However the rugged wilderness spreads out over a million hectares meaning there is ample opportunity to avoid the crowds and get off the beaten track. Leave the organised tours and go by car or admire the scenery as you wind up into the mountains by train. The advantage is you can then choose how long you stay, and stopping in a secluded mountain cabin overnight is worth considering. This also allows you to visit a hotel (pub) after your trek and savour a well-earned ice cold beer in the company of ever-friendly locals. However, the principle reason to escape the city is the night sky. If you cannot get to Uluru (Ayres Rock) on your trip, a clear night in these mountains will give you a taste of what you missed. Here you are far enough from Sydney to enjoy the universe from a whole new angle. Enjoy a warm drink and let your mind wander as you gaze up at the infinity of the sky and impressive starlight, which simply cannot be equalled in our own overpopulated island. Many tourists count Sydney's chilled atmosphere among their fondest memories of the city without realising what nurtures it. By leaving the tourist trail to see the city's treasures you realise the amiable nature of its inhabitants springs from a genuine appreciation of how lucky they are.
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