People & Places
Why choose to live in Ballarat?
A gold mining town; a bastion of civil disobedience; a centre of architectural excellence – Ballarat has many faces. Hanna Lindon explores Victoria's biggest inland city
With the Victorian coastal cities of Melbourne and Geelong sending out lures to emigrants, it's easy to overlook the charms of an inland destination like Ballarat. True, you won't find lapping wavelets and sandy stretches in this compact city, but there is a historical atmosphere and a booming cultural scene which should appeal to us Brits.
The name Ballarat originally derives from the Aboriginal 'Ballaarat', which literally translates as 'resting place'. Before experiencing an influx during the Gold Rush in 1850, it existed as a stock poop station established by William Cross. Some expected Ballarat to dwindle and die after the gold ran scarce, but the city surprised sceptics by making a successful transition from mining to manufacturing and engineering during the early 20th century. It now has a healthy economy which centres around tourism and hospitality, education and information technology services.
There's a saying among Ballarat residents: 'People come for the work and stay for the lifestyle'. That was certainly true for British-born Anna Maybank, who visited the city in search of a holiday job and ended up staying for six months. "I was between university and college and had decided to go travelling in Australia to pass some time and see the world," she recalls. "I loved Sydney and Melbourne, but Ballarat just had something that extra special. In a funny way it sort of reminded me of home – there's an atmosphere there that you don't seem to get anywhere else in Australia." Perhaps it's this special atmosphere that caused Ballarat to be the first Australian city to be registered as a member of the International League of Historical Cities in 2003. The distinction recognised the beauty of Ballarat's architecture, which is pretty much unrivalled anywhere else in the country. It's a beautiful place to live," confirms Anna. "I'm not talking just about the buildings, but about the streets – Ballarat's full of these wide boulevards which make you think of major French cities like Paris. You also find a lot of public art in the city – there seems to be a sculpture or a statue around every corner."
Adding to Ballarat's attractions is a fine selection of parks and gardens, many of which are recognised to be among the finest in Australia. The Botanical Gardens, with their huge variety of plantlife, are definitely worth a visit: make sure you take a stroll along Prime Ministers' Walk which features bronze busts of every Australian leader. Lake Wendouree, a large recreational lake which hosted the rowing events for the 1956 Summer Olympics, is also a must-see. Ballarat is well known for producing top sportsmen, including marathon runner Steve Moneghetti, and puts a good deal of money into its sporting initiatives. A wide selection of well-maintained indoor stadiums, training centres and Olympic-sized pools bear testament to this, as does the number of rowing, cricket and basketball clubs that operate in the city. Football fans shouldn't be afraid that they'll miss out by leaving the UK – Ballarat boasts one of the oldest football clubs in the world, and takes its BDSA soccer competition very seriously. "A lot of blokes in Ballarat seem to be in to football," observes Anna. "I hadn't noticed that anywhere else into Australia, but in Ballarat they had a similar attitude towards the sport as people do in the UK. It isn't just a hobby for them, it's a passion."
For those whose only exercise is powered by cocktails and taken on the dancefloor, Ballarat has a number of popular dance clubs. There is also a lively music and jazz scene, as well as a varied selection of wine bars and pubs. "When I went out in Ballarat I usually had a great time," Anna says. "The clubs are good, and usually pretty full, and nothing is as expensive as in the UK. Something I did notice, though, which is different from Britain, is that young people tend to meet up in hotels rather than in pubs or clubs. The hotels in Ballarat are really nice places to have a drink and watch the world go by, and it's a great way to meet internationals as well. The only problem is that there are a lot of gambling machines around everywhere. Wherever you go, you'll see someone slotting money into a fruit machine. It's a bit weird"
If you're looking for something a little more sophisticated than a pint in a pub and a button to press, there's a huge variety of cultural entertainments to be had in the evenings. Regent Theatre on Lydiard Street is a restored 1930s building which is both a theatre and a cinema complex. Popular highbrow performances also take place at Her Majesty's Theatre, and travelling theatre companies regularly perform in the Mechanics Institute Hall. "I found that I went to the theatre much more when I was living in Ballarat," says Anna. There's an amazing performing arts festival called the Royal South Street Eisteddfod, which people go to from miles around. It happens for 12 weeks every year, and is usually a real laugh." Galleries in Ballarat include the Fine Art Gallery, considered to have one of the best collections outside of Australia's state capitals, and the University's Camp Street Campus which regularly shows and sells student fine art.
With all these advantages you would expect Ballarat to have a fantastic atmosphere – and you wouldn't be mistaken. The city's secret lies in its proximity to Melbourne, which allows many of the capital's high flyers to use Ballarat as a commuter base. "I met some fascinating people in Ballarat," says Anna. "People from all walks of life. It's certainly not a provincial city – it feels like it's in the hub of things, without being as busy and congested as Melbourne."
If you've got a job in Melbourne but fancy Ballarat as a more peaceful and cheaper alternative, then the commute will take you approximately 1.5 hours by car (a mere nothing in Australian terms). Regular coach and rail services also go between the city centres. Those who are sceptical about inland living in Australia will also be pleased to know that Ballarat has a respectable four seasons, and is on average two to three centigrade cooler than Melbourne. The elevation of the city, 450 metres above sea level, attracts some pleasant breezes and neutralises the sweltering temperatures for which Australia is famous. In the winter it's even common to get a scattering of snow. "I thought I'd miss the sea," muses Anna, "But to be honest it wasn't really an issue. Ballarat isn't the kind of place where you have to stay indoors with the air-conditioning turned up during the summer months."
And if you do find yourself getting a little hot under the collar, the city boasts plenty of outdoor pools to dunk your head in – the residents won't mind. "It's a really relaxed place, and people don't judge you for being different," says Anna. "I fitted in there really easily." She advises anybody thinking of moving to Melbourne to check out the city's inland neighbour first, or risk missing out on a great lifestyle opportunity.
Don't miss...
Sovereign Hill; Fantastic views over the city
The Mining Exchange: The site where soldiers gathered to quell a revolt by miners at the Eureka Stockade
Stuart street: For some super-stylish cafes and restaurants
Ballarat Fine Art Gallery: Australia's largest and oldest regional gallery
Great Grape Road: Wine tasting anyone?
Ballarat Wildlife Park: Packed with some fantastic native Australian specimens.
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