People & Places
The attraction of Albany
Whale watching, swimming and shopping and can all be enjoyed to the stunning backdrop of Western Australia’s rugged coastline in Albany, writes Jo-ann Hodgson
Albany is the oldest European settlement in Western Australia and was founded in 1826, three years before the state capital, Perth. The first European explorers to visit the area were on the Dutch ship Gulden Zeepaert (Golden Seahorse) in 1626 and many years later in 1791, English captain George Vancouver explored the south coast, entering and naming King George Sound. Albany was the site at which on he took possession of New Holland for the British Crown on 26th September 1791, with the clever use of a flag.
Over 200 years later and the city is still a popular destination with Europeans – its white sandy beaches, historic sites and nature-spotting opportunities attracting numerous British expats every year. Located 408 kilometres south-east of Perth, Albany has its fair share of stunning coastline. The city and the surrounding area is home to numerous people-friendly beaches, such as Middleton Beach, the closest to the city centre. The beach has a village-feel and provides a picturesque environment to enjoy the swimming, picnic, barbecue and playground facilities available. The Middleton Beach Board Walk follows the coast around from Ellen Coast, where whales can be seen between July and October, and the beach even has its own golf course which overlooks the ocean. Boat-owners, sailboarders and swimmers can also take advantage of the calm shallow waters of Emu Point, an area also popular for fishing. River cruises and deep sea fishing charters depart from Emu Point Marina and the nearby Oyster Harbour continues to be used for oyster and mussel farming. The Princess Royal Harbour and King George Sound surround Albany and Mount Clarence and Mount Melville are great locations for spotting dolphins and seals, as well as Humpback and Southern Right whales when they migrate south. Stoney Hill Lookout also offers great views, offering a 360 degree vantage point over the Southern Ocean and back to the city.
During the spring, coastal wildflowers are also a popular sight, creating a colourful blanket along the cliffs. King George Sound is home to a purpose-sunk shipwreck, the HMAS Perth, which provides a great opportunity for divers to explore and swim amongst the many species of fish and marine life that have made the wreck their home since 2001. Before the 1950s, whaling was one of the major sources of income and employment for the people of Albany but since the Whaling Station was closed for operations in 1979 – the last operating station in the Southern Hemisphere to close – it has been converted to a museum of whaling, Whale World, which is home to the Cheynes IV Whale chaser.
Another popular tourist attraction is a full-scale replica of the Brig Amity, the ship that brought the first settlers and convicts to Albany in 1826. Visitors can climb on board and go below decks to learn the story of the Amity's journey from Sydney to King George Sound and if you want to follow the story further, you can visit the Old Gaol, which was built by convicts as their own prison and is today a museum. Albany is home to HMAS Albany and the adoped home port of the Royal Australian Navy frigate HMAS Anzac. It's also frequently visted by other impressive warships. The resorted wattle and daud cottage of Patrick Taylor from 1831, which is considered the oldest building in Albany, is also important in understanding the city, and indeed Western Australia's history.
Further inland the Albany Farmers market transforms the usually quiet Aberdeen Street into a bustling hive of activity every Saturday, where local producers sell their fresh seasonal produce direct to locals and tourists. Favourites include organic meats, including locally farmed ostrich and venison, yogurt, cheeses, extra virgin olive oils and flowers. The city centre also hosts a number of festivals, exhibitions and fairs throughout the year to celebrate the beginning of the wildflower season, music, art, fine-wine and literature. The Vancouver Arts Centre, designed in the 1880s by famous architect, George T Poole, is also used for a variety of art galleries and houses a variety of exhibitions open to visitors. If you want to get away from the busy hub of the city, there are various Conversation Parks and National Parks around Albany. The Two People's Bay Conservation Park is famous for its small colony of noisy scrub birds which were thought to be extinct until they were re-discovered in 1961. The Torndirrup National Park, a 15 minute drive from Albany is best known for its 'Natural Bridge', a rock formation sculpted by the seas of the Southern Coast. Nearby is 'The Gap', where the ocean dramatically rushes into a large cavern in the rocks. Albany is as important to the understanding of Western Australia's history as it the state's tourist appeal and it doesn't take long when exploring the city to understand why European's continue to be drawn to this fascinating area.
A British view
We have only actually lived in Albany for 18 months having moved down from the Perth area where we lived for roughly 18 years, says Dave Court. Albany is surrounded by some amazing scenery and is a popular tourist destination with people, largely from Perth, but also from overseas during the summer months, November – April.
It has a more temperate climate than Perth and has a higher rainfall. As a result things, in contrast to Perth, stay greener and if there was a place even slightly similar to parts of the UK within Western Australia than Albany would be it, but to be honest it bears only a slight resemblance. The temperature seldom goes over 35OC even on the hottest day and if it's hot today there is a good chance it will be cooler tomorrow.
The beaches are amazing and to some extent less controlled than those in the city, many still allow 4x4 transport and it is possible, even in peak tourism times, to find your own little cove complete with rock pools and a sandy beach etcetera. The fishing is also good. Swimming is a pretty chilly experience and there are rips (strong current) to consider on some beaches but generally it's okay. The town of Albany has (by Western Australian standards) a long and checkered history it has seen good and bad times. Timber and whaling were once important industries in the area and farming still is.
Tourism is now an important industry which the locals are only slowly coming to grips with. The city is very family orientated and working after 12pm on a Saturday is disliked by many local business owners. It's not uncommon to see tourists wandering around the town on a Sunday or public holiday wondering where to eat and what to do. But that will no doubt change in the future. Actually, living in the town as a newcomer has some difficulties. Like many small towns it is important to know the right people, unless you are in a specialised field the good jobs will go to the locals. As in every town there are good and bad areas and it's worth doing some research before buying, but by far the majority of people are friendly and welcoming.
We lived on a small acreage (50+ acres) approximately 25 minutes out of town, there are many of these small holdings offering an alternative life style. Because of the wetter climate some level of self sufficiency is possible and it would be a great way to bring up a family. These properties are tightly held, though, and there are never many for sale at any one time. Surprisingly, given the large distances to anywhere in this part of Australia, 25 minutes out of town is considered a 'cut lunch and water bag trip' by many.
In common with the rest of WA property prices have seen a dramatic increase in the past couple of years, the average price is around AUS$400,000 and is comparable to Perth prices. All in all we have enjoyed our time in Albany but it is a sometimes sleepy town with somewhat limited job opportunities. We are now due to return to the UK, but we would like to come back one day but that will be when we retire. Bringing up a family here would be fantastic though.
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