People & Places
Off the beaten track in New Zealand
While in the UK were used to crowds of people no matter where we live, in New Zealand this neednt be the case. David Fuller goes in search of destinations that are off the beaten track
It is an often repeated fact that over a quarter of New Zealand's entire population of 4.1 million people live in the Auckland metropolitan area. When you think about it this is an astonishing statistic. New Zealand has a total land area of 268,680 square kilometres, of which Greater Auckland covers just 1,086 square kilometres. Yet, well in excess of 1.2 million people live in this relatively small part of the country, leaving almost three million people spread out throughout the rest of New Zealand an area slightly bigger than the UK.
If you then add the number of people living in Auckland to the combined number of residents in the country's next four biggest cities Wellington, Christchurch, Hamilton and Dunedin suddenly over half of the country's population is accounted for, and there's still 230,000 square kilometres of space in the country left to fill. Obviously, there are many parts of New Zealand that are inhabitable, particularly on the South Island which is dominated by the Southern Alps. Nevertheless, for those of you who dream of seeking peace and solitude when you emigrate, there are no end of New Zealand destinations that can be described as being off the beaten track. Of course, if it is a lifestyle away from the crowds that you seek, you need to take into account the fact you will probably still have to work, so it is important not to relocate too far into the sticks where your chances of finding suitable employment will be considerably lower. Also, unless upon emigrating you plan to become a hermit, you'll be wanting to meet new people and make new friends, so moving somewhere where your only neighbours are a few sheep, a herd of cows and a family of alpacas is not going to allow you the best opportunity to make the most of your social life.
The following destinations, however, should all provide you with the ideal combination of being away from the teeming masses without having to 'baa', 'moo', or whatever noise alpacas make, to communicate with the local community.
Go west
The West Coast region of New Zealand, located (funnily enough) on the west coast of the South Island, is one of the most remote areas in the country. Nestled between the Tasman Sea to the west and the Southern Alps to the east, this is a long and, at no more than 30 kilometres in width in most places, extremely narrow region, featuring landscapes as diverse as rugged bushland and glaciers.
Despite covering an area of 23,276 square kilometres making it one of NZ's more sizable regions the West Coast is currently only home to around 30,500 residents (known as Coasters), ensuring that almost wherever you settle, you'll be away from the crowds.
However, there are at least two towns in the region that do fulfil the criteria of being off the beaten track and still offering a social pulse.
Greymouth (population 9,500) is the largest and most populous town in the West Coast, with 20 per cent of the region's population living there. Once one of the most lucrative gold and coal mining areas in New Zealand, today the town's economy is reliant on the forestry and dairy farming industries, although in recent years the local economy has rapidly expanded towards becoming a commercial base that includes many of the modern businesses you would expect to find in most western towns or cities. As the major town on the West Coast, Greymouth arguably offers its residents a greater selection of shops (both chain stores and independently run outlets), restaurants, cafes and bars than any other town in the region.
Twenty-five kilometres south of Greymouth, Hokitika (population 4,500) is perhaps best known for hosting the Wildfood Festival of NZ, which has annually been held in the town since 1990. It is certainly one of NZ's quirkier towns. Famous for producing vast amounts of pounamu (greenstone), Hokitika has a reputation of being one of the most 'arty' places in New Zealand. A plethora of shops selling hand made pounamu jewllery and sculptures dot the town's streets, while craftspeople such as gold jewellers, wood turners and potters all ply their trades in the town. Like Greymouth, Hokitika's economy was once fuelled by gold and coal mining before supplies began to dwindle and the dairy industry took its place as the most important economic sector in the area. Today, however, Hokitika's location it is situated between wild beaches and rivers at the centre of an area known for its rainforests and wetlands has led to the town becoming one of New Zealand's most popular areas for eco-tourism and this, along with the Wildfood festival, is bringing much needed extra income into the town.
Should you decide to become a 'Coaster' when you emigrate, then it's worth noting that no matter where you settle on the West Coast you will get wet; very wet. Due to the prevailing northwesterly wind pattern that gets trapped by the Southern Alps, the West Coast has the highest average annual rainfall and the highest number of wet days of any Kiwi region. Hokitika, for example, endures over 14,100 millimetres of rain each year. On the flip side, when it's not raining the West Coast does receive its fair share of sunny days and enjoys a pleasant average summer temperature of 16.3oC.
Down south
If you're really looking for an off the beaten track destination in New Zealand which can offer you the same kind of amenities that you would expect to find in a much bigger town or city, then Invercargill may appeal. The most southerly and western city in NZ, Invercargill is home to just under 50,000 people and is by far and away the biggest residential area in New Zealand's unimaginatively titled Southland region (the second largest in the country).
Up until around 20 years ago Invercargill was little more than a service centre for the surrounding Southland farming community, but in recent years it has undergone some major development, particularly in the inner city area which has been upgraded into a modern, attractive and vibrant city centre. This development has really rejuvenated life in the city, and the city's council are hopeful that this in turn will lead not only to a greater influx of visitors, but residents as well.
Invercargill is well known for its strong Scottish heritage. Many of the streets in the city are named after rivers in Scotland and northern England Dee, Ness, Tay, Yarrow and Esk to name a few while Scottish activities like bagpipe playing and highland games can still be heard or viewed in the city on a regular basis. Invercargill's ties with Scotland date back to when the city was first established by European settlers back in the 1850s. Farmers from the Scottish settlement of Dunedin, located 195 kilometres north-east, began buying land for sheep runs in the far south and eventually started moving to Invercargill which, as already mentioned, is surrounded by lush farmland.
The city is actually named in honour of Scot William Cargill, a pioneer who was involved in the administration and settlement of both the Otago Southland regions. In terms of climate, Invercargill enjoys fairly similar weather to the UK, with average temperatures of around 5oC in the winter and 18oC in the summer. While the city does not receive anywhere near as much rainfall as the West Coast, and less annually than both Auckland and Wellington for that matter, its location close to the south coast of NZ does sometimes lead to it being battered by some strong gale force winds, which can bring with it harsh rainfall.
However, the city's climate is ideal for the surrounding farmland, and the success of the local agriculture industry remains vital to the prosperity of Invercargill. Sheep, dairy, beef and deer farming all also amount to big business in the city, while horticulture, fishing, forestry, tourism and manufacturing are likewise important sectors for the city's economy. New Zealand's only aluminium smelter, located at Tiwai Point near Bluff (south of Invercargill), is another major contributor to Invercargill's vibrant economy. The city's position at the heart of the Southern Scenic Route, not to mention its proximity to Stewart Island, Fiordlands and the Catlin Coast, has long made Invercargill a popular tourism centre, and this too is one of the city's major industries.
The isolated east
On the whole, towns and cities on the North Island do not tend to be as remote as many of those on the slightly bigger, yet far less populated, South Island. That said, the North Island still boasts of a number of places where you can live miles away from the crowds without becoming a complete social outcast. The area surrounding the city of Gisborne sometimes referred to as either Eastland, the East Cape, the East Coast, or even solely as Gisborne is one of the most sparsely populated areas on the island. Other than the city itself, no other town in this district (population approximately 45,000), has more than 1,500 residents, so, unless you are actually happy to have farm animals as your neighbours, it's probably best that if you do choose this area as a potential new home you look at moving to Gisborne itself.
Gisborne is New Zealand's easternmost city and therefore the first city in the world to welcome the dawn of a new day. Not that this is the only claim to fame held by the Gisborne district; nearby Poverty Bay was the first NZ land mass to be sighted by the crew of Captain James Cook's ship Endeavour back in 1769, and the great explorer took his very first steps on Kiwi soil in Gisborne. Today, the city, known locally as 'Gizzy', is home to roughly 30,000 people and is becoming an increasingly popular destination with North Islanders who are looking to move away from the hustle and bustle of the island's bigger centres. Gisborne's major attraction is its weather; basking in over 2,200 hours of sunshine annually, and offering residents an average of 65 days a year where temperatures reach over 24oC, the city boasts one of New Zealand's warmest climates. And with sandy beaches aplenty, and acres of natural bush ideal for tramping (hiking) located in the district's inland area, there are plenty of ways to make the most of the outdoor lifestyle such a warm climate affords. The city's economy has traditionally been based around the
agricultural, forestry and associated manufacturing sectors, and these industries still provide the backbone of Gisborne's economic growth. Sheep and cattle breeding have long been thriving industries in Gizzy, as has food processing and the manufacturing of agricultural goods such as electric fencing and fishing rods.
However, in recent years a number of other sectors have began to play an increasingly important role in maintaining the district's economy. Tourism, for example, has become big business, with many visitors drawn to the area by its climate and numerous other draws such as surfing, water sports and garden attractions nearby Eastwoodhill Arboretum boasts the largest collection of Northern Hemisphere trees in the Southern Hemisphere.
Viticulture is another industry very much on the rise in Gisborne, with the district responsible for almost 30 per cent of New Zealand's production of 75 tonnes of grapes.
Obviously this is just a very small selection of Kiwi destinations which would enable you to live a life away from the masses without becoming too much of a loner. Ultimately, of course, there will be a number of factors that will govern your decision of where you will settle in NZ, including where you can get a job, where you can afford to live, and, most importantly, where you feel comfortable. But with so much country to explore away from the major centres, if it is a quiet life you seek, you can be sure the perfect destination off the beaten track awaits you in New Zealand somewhere.
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