Lifestyle and Leisure
Surfing in Australia
One of the biggest attractions to a new life down under is surfing in Australia and its laid-back lifestyle is the surf, writes Clive Herrald
Surfing in Australia has long been recognised one of the country's most popular sport, which is understandable when you consider that about 90 per cent of the population actually lives on or near to the coast – with its prolific supply of good surfing beaches. A significant trend in the last five years or so is a growing number of us older Australians getting back into surfing after long breaks. This will generally involve the purchase of a 'Malibu', or 'Mal' as they are called here, and a regular trek to the beach. Age is not a barrier. I regularly surf with my four sons, all of whom are keen surfers but it's not uncommon to chat with other surfers who can be in their seventies. My own father was seventy-eight when he died having surfed that morning.
As an Aussie with over 40 years experience of surfing in Australia, I have seen an enormous amount of change to surfboards, surf wear and numbers of surfers, and I have also surfed at a fair share of the beaches around our beautiful coastline. I got my first surfboard when I was 12 years old which cost me five quid. In those days, Australian currency was also pounds, shillings and pence. Before I could actually have a board I had to prove to my father that I could swim a mile in the sea and could therefore look after myself. There were no such things as leg ropes/leashes, so when you came off – or 'wiped out' as it's also called – you generally had a long swim back to shore to retrieve your board before paddling back out to do it all again. Boards in those days were all nine feet plus in length and were quite heavy. Nowadays, Mals are quite light and thanks to some of the new materials, are getting lighter and stronger. I now have five boards all of different lengths between six and nine feet. The smaller boards are extremely light and manoeuvrable but are also more prone to breakage, harder to paddle and catch waves with.
Surfing safari
There are a number of famous surfing locations around Australia which offer consistent surf and will sometimes be seen on TV with some of the world surfing title events. If you surfed every possible break it would take you several years!
Starting our safari in Western Australia, Margaret River has a number of quality locations depend-ing on the swell direction and wind. Some years ago I surfed the WA break known as Southpoint, which is a left hand break off a rocky headland. My memory of that day is still very vivid as the waves were a solid 12 to 15 feet with perfect shape and barrelling. I recall getting my very first wave of the day and looking up from what is known as the 'pit' to see the wave ten plus feet over my head as a tube of water. The exhilaration was fantastic as was the desire to go and do it again and again. Margaret River is renowned for big powerful surf which can be a bit daunting for the less experienced. The water tends to be colder with the current coming from the Southern Ocean and all along the southern coastline of Australia you generally have fewer patrolled beaches and fewer surfers than the more populated spots along the east coast. You are also more likely to encounter the famous White Pointer Sharks in these waters, not that that really deters the committed surfer.
South Australia also has its share of surfing beaches. However, they are generally more isolated and not patrolled or well known, except to the locals. When you hit Victoria you encounter Philip Island with its surfing breaks and, of course, Bells Beach. When the swell is right and the wind is right Bells Beach, and just next door at Winkipop, has some of the best waves in the world.
Moving north there are surfing beaches one after the other. Southern New South Wales offers some very good breaks with towns like Bega, Moruya and Ulladulla all boasting very good waves. I have often surfed these waters in past years with my favorite breaks being Broulee, just north of Moruya and Golf Clubs and Green Island at Ulladulla. There are heaps of other good breaks but each time I have ventured south there are only so many beaches you can surf in the limited time that you have available.
As you move north you come to Kiama, with its famous blowhole and then Wollongong, which is just south of Sydney. Once again the selection of beaches is vast with many good breaks to surf. Then you hit Sydney, Cronulla in the south, the famous Bondi Beach, Palm Beach and Manly (to name but a few), quality breaks with consistent waves. Move north to the Entrance and then onto Newcastle. Having grown up in Newcastle there is a vast selection of beaches and different breaks that affords the keen surfer the opportunity to find a wave regardless of wind direction and conditions. Beaches like Mereweather, Bar Beach, and Nobbys are but a few of the popular spots in Newcastle. Northwards you reach Taree, Coffs Harbor and Port Macquarie, all with their share of good surfing beaches. The further north we move the water temperature increases, which makes the time you spend in the water much easier and wetsuits less important. As we move further north we reach Angourie, the home of the past world surfing champion Nat Young. Angourie offers a good point break and is very popular indeed. The rides are long and the waves are consistent. Keep travelling north and you come to Evans Head and then to Ballina. Just out of Ballina is a spot known as Flat Rock with a camping ground right on the headland. This spot has for many years been a very good place to spend a few days surfing and camping as the location allows you to walk down a track a few hundred metres onto the beach. The wind will dictate which side of the headland you will surf, either north or south of the point. Just last year I had an unexpected visit by a six-foot mako shark at this break. After the shark rudely interrupted my surfing I paddled in to the beach, walked around the point, and paddled back out. The surf was pumping so it didn't take long to forget about the shark. Fortunately, he did not reappear on the scene. Head further north to Lennox Head, a great wave when there is some solid swell but often the swell is accompanied by a sweeping current and you have to paddle all the time to stay at the take-off point. Getting in and out of the water is also a little difficult as the shoreline is rocky and you often find yourself slipping on rocks – not a nice thing to do when you have a board under one arm. Next stop is Byron Bay with all of its beaches and other facilities. It's a truly beautiful part of Australia. This spot is a surfing, diving and a tourist hot spot. The beaches are plentiful, the waves are generally very good, and the other attractions also make this place a must see for tourists and migrants alike. I have had many days of surfing here and each time have gone home exhausted, but having had a great day's surfing. Keep driving north and surf Cabarita, just south of the Queensland border. In recent years this would have to be one of my favourite breaks, mostly right handers but always consistent in small or big swells. When some big swells come in many surfers are unable to get out to surf the larger waves, but when you make it out it is awesome. After there we arrive at the Queensland border at Duranbah and then Snapper Rocks. Both beaches have featured in the world surfing scene over the years with a number of top-ranking surfing professionals coming from this area. In recent times there has been a lot of sand pumping in this area from the Tweed River system and the sand bank now at Snapper has given it the name of the 'Super Bank'. When the big swells come in you can ride the right wave for several kilometres. For me, this break has become too crowded and as a result I have not surfed it for several years. I would much prefer to surf a little lesser quality wave without the crowd. You will typically have a number of surfers on each wave and that can be difficult in itself. All along the Gold Coast are many surfing beaches with around 20 active Surf Clubs to patrol the area up to the Southport spit, which is where the tourist attraction Seaworld is located. Between Southport and the Sunshine Coast you encounter South and North Stradbroke Islands as well as Moreton and Bribie Islands. The Point Lookout break on North Straddie is extremely good and when the swell is right offers consistent waves with some quality barrels to boot. One of my recent sessions here involved some good swell and regular barrelling waves. I got smashed on one wave after sitting in the barrel for a few seconds. The lip of the wave then knocked me head first off my board and rolled me over and over as I came up for air. When I paddled back out my mates commented at how good the barrel was but I remarked "yeah, that part was great, but the aftermath was a bit ordinary".
Next up is the Sunshine Coast and you once again have a smorgasbord of beaches to choose from. For consistency Maroochydore is probably the best choice. However, when we get cyclonic conditions out at sea and very large swells Noosa is the pick with incredibly long right-hand point waves where the ride can seem to go on forever. When the swells and waves are good Noosa does become very crowded but the waves are certainly well worth it. I recall as a young boy surfing Noosa in perfect six-foot waves and only a handful of surfers. Today, when it is six foot and pumping the handful turns into hundreds. Beyond Noosa we have very little surf because of the Great Barrier Reef blocking the swell as it comes in from the Pacific Ocean. But for those really keen to get a wave further north you can venture out in a boat to the outer edge of the Barrier Reef and actually surf the waves onto the reef. It is certainly an unusual sight seeing nothing but water as far as the eye can see. It is also a most unusual feeling knowing that you are more than 20 miles offshore and still catching waves.
All in all, with so many beaches to choose from, no matter where you decide to visit or to settle, it is more than likely that you will be relatively close to the ocean, and the lure of the waves and beaches is one sure thing to attract you to our fantastic country. For me, I am quite happy surfing the Sunshine Coast almost every weekend with the occasional trip to the Gold Coast, NSW and even the odd visit to Margaret River. It's a simple pastime but one that draws you back to the ocean every chance you get. When you come to Australia to live can I encourage you to try it, you just might get the bug and enjoy it as much as I do. Happy surfing in Australia.
Surfer speak
Surfing has its own lingo. Here's a few key terms used by Clive:
Barrelling – when a wave hits a breaking point at speed the lip of the wave is thrown forwards, creating a barrel-shaped space. The bottom of this waveform is the pit.
Break – where and how a wave breaks. It could be a headland, a reef (rock or coral) or over sand. This determines the take-off point – where you catch the wave.
Cyclonic – Hurricanes are known as 'Cyclones' in Australasia. If they are well offshore, they can produce excellent surfing conditions.
Leash – A rubber 'rope' that keeps the board attached to you.
Malibu/Mal – A surfboard of about nine feet in length.
Pumping – Wave after good wave
Swell – Wind creates waves.
If the wind is out at sea, a swell is produced that can reach land as organised sets of waves (if there isn't an interferring wind source).
Wipe out – Fall off, dude.
Related article:
Fishing in Australia
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