Lifestyle and Leisure
The great white breaks
With a coast consisting of a succession of perfectly positioned beaches, points and bays, South Africa is something of a mecca in the surfing world
But if you plan to take a dip in the ocean watch out for the sharks, warns Kate Baddeley
Fly to Port Elizabeth, drive south round the coast and you'll find it – one of the finest waves on the planet. Legend has it that years ago, in the late 1950s, the king of South African surfing, John Whitmore, discovered the waves at Jeffrey's Bay as he drove up the famous 'Garden Route' between Cape Town and Port Elizabeth on a business trip.
If you have any knowledge of surfing you will know that South Africa is a country famous for its waves, particularly Jeffrey's Bay (it is affectionately known as 'J-Bay' by surfers worldwide). The 1960s surfing documentary The Endless Summer broadcast the perfect waves that South Africa had to offer, attracting surfers from other countries, as well as locals. South Africa cops plenty of swell from Antarctic lows and is surrounded by the ocean on three sides. It's 3,000-kilometre coastline has a 270 degree swell exposure, which basically means waves, waves and more waves. South Africa's coastline is swept by two major ocean currents, the warm south-flowing Mozambique-Agulhas Current and the cold Benguela, and every coast is pounded by surf throughout the year. March to September sees the best surf, the surf can be anywhere in the 6–15 foot range.
The perfect conditions in South Africa provide a variety of surf, from beginner beach breaks to word class reef breaks. "But probably the best thing about surfing in South Africa is the abundance of surf and the few surfers that are actually in the water – compared to places like the US and Australia. Rarely do we see a situation where it is too crowded to surf. This only happens once or twice a year in the prime surf spots," says Chris Baum, president of the KZNSA (KwaZulu-Natal Surfing Association). "Another advantage must be the temperament of the majority of the surfers – we are all very laid-back and the vibe in the water is always easy going and mellow. We do not have the heavy localism that you will find at the major breaks around the world."
There are too many perfect spots to mention in South Africa, so to name just a few, the main areas of St Francis Bay, Durban and the Cape Peninsula (where the surf is most consistent) are all great places for holidays if you want to have a go at peeling off some right handers. "J-Bay is rated as one of the best right hand point breaks in the world. The Durban beach front, New Pier and North Beach are all world class breaks in the right conditions. Nahoon Reef in East London is amazing, and there are plenty of decent breaks scattered around the cape, such as the legendary Elands Bay on the West Coast. The list is too long to mention them all." says Baum.
South Africa is in fact home to two of the biggest events of the surfing calendar: The Billabong Pro WCT event in J-Bay in July and the MR Price 5 Star WQS event in Durban in June, with many smaller events scattered throughout the year.
With all this on their doorstep you would think that the average South African would be as passionate about surfing as the British are about football. But Baum reckons that, "There are about 5,000 active surfers in South Africa which is a very small per cent of our population".
So what's keeping the natives out of the water? Well, it could be what's lurking beneath the waves. Three of the most dangerous species of shark patrol the seas of South Africa: The Bull, the Tiger and perhaps the most feared of all the Great White. In 2003 Australian Taj Burrow, one of the most talented surfers on the professional circuit, swore he saw a shark during his semi-final heat of the Billabong Pro at J-Bay. While paddling out, Burrow spotted a massive dorsal fin heading in his direction. Burrow quickly scrambled to the beach where announcers were stating that it wasn't a dorsal fin, but a whale on its side. A clearly rattled Burrow reluctantly returned to the line-up but failed to attain the needed score. His claim that it was a massive Great White was given credence when, the following week, a South African teen was mauled by a large shark while warming up for a Junior contest. An analysis of South African shark attack records over the last four decades has shown that attacks are rare events, with an average of only six incidents per year. Of these, less than 30 per cent resulted in serious injury and only eight per cent were fatal.
However, surfers, are more at risk then most. The Great White feeds mostly off huge colonies of cape fur seals and most Great White attacks on surfers occur as a result of mistaken identity with seals. But surfers are riskier then most land lovers and tend to push their luck. They surf when there are shoals of fish around or when floodwater from rivers deposits material in the sea, making the water brown and murky. This happens in the Transkei and KwaZulu-Natal, when summer rains swell the rivers. And many South African surfers play russian roulette and ignore bleeding cuts.
So what are the risks? "Tough question. In the cold waters of the cape, shark attacks and shark sightings are on the increase. North of the cape the risks are significantly reduced," answers Baum. "Saying that I reckon there are many other sports that are a lot riskier than surfing. Odds are that you will have a greater chance of being struck by lightning then being a victim of an attack. Most of the KwaZulu-Natal beaches have shark nets that greatly reduce the chances." But hey, the attitude of the majority of surfers is there are so few shark attacks so why worry. Sharks are generally elusive, wary and selective in their hunting habits.
Durban is a great place for beginners as shark nets protect certain beaches. The city put the nets in place in 1952 and suffered no more serious attacks, but several netless resorts a short way off did. During one horrific period known as 'Black December,' five people died in shark attacks over a 107-day stretch, from Christmas 1957 to Easter 1958. The surf at beaches with nets tends to be a bit smaller. So you have to choose – good, big surf or shark nets.
Timing is another factor when surfing the East Coast of the country. The best times of the year are autumn, winter and early spring, between March and October. The summer months are hot and humid, with a lot of rain, which makes the water more sharky than usual.
In short, if you're sensible there is no reason why you should be put off. Obey instructions from lifeguards and other beach officials, always swim in groups and when visiting an unfamiliar area seek local advice. As Baum says, "Surfing in South Africa is such a pleasure. This is a sport that is growing in leaps and bounds." Just don't forget the full wet suit and booties as the water can be pretty cold.
Chris Baum is the president of the KwaZulu-Natal Surfing Association
Related article:
Surfing in Australia
Register for your FREE emigration starter pack