Lifestyle & Leisure - The scenery of South Africa

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The scenery of South Africa

Everybody's heard about South Africa's diverse scenery – but what's it like to actually live in the midst of some of these extremes? Hanna Lindon finds out

South Africa is famously known as a country of wonderful scenery, of contrasts – it certainly lives up to its 'Rainbow Nation' nickname. Whether you're fond of mountains, enamoured of the seaside or enjoy watching antelope roaming outside your sitting room window, there's bound to be somewhere you'll be delighted to call home. "The slogan for South African tourism is 'A world in one country'," says Leana Nel, a native Jo'burger. "It couldn't be more apt. To travel in South Africa is a delight, as the scenery changes constantly. I have lived here all my life, and every time we travel to different parts of the country I still stand in awe of the beauty."

But your enjoyment of the South African landscape and scenery doesn't have to be restricted to holidays. If you're thinking of emigrating, these fabulous contrasts could become an everyday reality. Imagine having one of the world's most famous vineyards at your backdoor, or taking a stroll up the imposing Table Mountain a couple of times a week before tea. Interested? Then read on…

Moving mountains
The most famous mountain range in South Africa is of course the Drakensberg – fantastic for hiking adventures and exhilarating climbing experiences. If you fancy a house with panoramic mountain views but would rather not spend the winter freezing under a snowdrift, however, then consider buying in the gentler mountains of the Western Cape. "The Cape is beautiful, with its huge mountains, rivers and lakes," enthuses Nel. "I love travelling through Wales in the UK and I always wanted to see the Snowdonia mountains. After seeing them for the first time, though, I thought that the mountains around Cape Town are higher and more rugged." Hiking in and around these beautiful mountains is popular with Cape Town residents, and although most people tend to stick to the beaten track, it's possible to obtain permission to venture into the wilderness. A minimal payment allows access to roadless areas such as the Cedarberg, while permit holders can venture up Table Mountain, Groot Winterhoek, Du Toitskloof, Riviersonderend and Langeberg. Perhaps best of all, you can choose to live within sight of these beautiful ranges while still having access to all the amenities that Cape Town can offer. From many Cape Town homes – albeit the slightly pricier ones – it's possible to see the surrounding mountains from your garden.

But the desire to live in the shadows of some of the most beautiful mountains in the world isn't the only motivation for Brits emigrating to the Western Cape. "The Cape is a winter rainfall area, which means that it stays green right through the year," explains Nel. "That's in contrast with the rest of the country. I also believe that it is because of this that it is the province of choice for most Europeans, as the weather is so similar." The disadvantage of this tantalising mix of scenery, great weather and convenience is that the Western Cape is the second most expensive province in South Africa. Expect to pay approximately one million rand for an average three-bedroom house, and that's without the beautiful views thrown in. For those who would rather scrimp and save, the province of Mpumalanga is an attractive mountainous alternative. According to Nel, this South African province combines everything that's great about the country. "Mpumalanga, meaning 'Place where the sun rises', is where the Kruger National Park is situated," she says. "This area gets very hot and is also a summer rainfall area. This province has the best of all the provinces put together in the country, as it has mountains, rivers, lakes, wonderful weather and the best game parks in the world."

If your knowledge of South Africa is restricted to the area surrounding Cape Town, a research trip to Mpumalanga is a must – it's not known as 'Paradise Country' for nothing. The landscape is characterised by craggy mountains, panoramic scenery, passes and silky lowvelt. White water rivers wind through thick forests and thunder down echoing valleys. The area also offers some fantastic lifestyle opportunities. If you're considering retiring to Mpumalanga, you can be sure that you'll never be short of things to do. Aside from indulging your love of mountains by exploring the thousands of hikes and trails that run through the province, there's also big game watching right on your doorstep. Those who want to experience the mountainous landscape at a more leisurely pace can enjoy bird-watching, horse-riding and fishing. At the centre of Mpumalanga is the capital city of Nelspruit, close by fast roads to the mountains, the game reserves and the Lowvelt. It's a fantastic place to live if you want to immerse yourself in South Africa's scenery while also being within walking distance of a convenience store. Crime in the city is comparatively low, and it boasts numerous attractions in the form of eccentric little craft shops, lush botanical gardens and wide boulevards.

But town life isn't for everybody. If you want to be just a little bit closer to those tantalising mountains, try exploring some of the little villages which cling to the lower passes. Dullstroom, close to the beautiful scenery of the Long Tom Pass, is one of the more delectable. Other small towns which are both beautiful and steeped in history include Barberton and Pilgrim's Rest. You'll also find that village property is less demanding on the purse than a house in town – no excuse to be out of sight of those fabulous mountains then.

Staying mainly on the plain
If you prefer the civilised serenity of the rolling lowveld to the mountain wilderness, then a different part of the Western Cape may hold more appeal for you. Stellenbosch was the second area of the Western Cape (after Cape Town itself) to be settled by Europeans, and is rich in cultural history. "To take a drive from Cape Town to Paarl, Stellenbosch and Franshoek you will truly believe you are in France," says Nel. The comparison isn't limited to the lush countryside. Most of South Africa's vineyards are located in Stellenbosch and its surrounds, and wine sampling is a popular activity among the locals. Strolling leisurely along a wine trail, stopping for lunch at one of the area's vast vineyard estates and winding up in one of Stellenbosch's historic surrounding villages will also become a favourite pastime if you decide to relocate to the winelands.

Stellenbosch is one of South Africa's oldest and most beautiful cities, renowned for its academics and its university and abounding with cultural activities. It's a great place to live – but if you fancy escaping hectic urban life then you could also try the nearby town of Paarl. Nestled snugly in one of the area's lushest and most beautiful valleys, enjoying a sunny microclimate, it's the perfect location in which to spend your retirement. Like the rest of the Western Cape, however, the Stellenbosch area comes with a stiff price tag. An alternative destination is the Free State, which is also known for its green farmlands and rolling countryside. "The Orange Free State is a summer rainfall area and most of the country's drain is produced here," says Nel. "It is dryer than Stellenbosch and quite flat – most farmers are reliant on sheep. "But here you can expect the best sunsets you will ever see, and sometimes the moon hangs like a ball in the sky. When a rainstorm approaches the sky changes colour constantly, and when the first raindrop fall the earthy smell is wonderful."

The Free State has not yet caught on with European migrants, and prices are low. But its dry climate, fantastic for people with pulmonary troubles or arthritis, make it an obvious choice if your health is a primary concern. The capital of Bloemfontein is an attractive open-plan city, relatively sparsely populated and with good standards of healthcare, cleanliness and education. It's also bang in the middle of the beautiful bleak highveld, opening up numerous opportunities for walking and horse riding in this haunting landscape.

Totally tropical
If dripping forests, white-sand beaches, spectacular scenery and sleepy, winding rivers are your cup of tea, then Kwazulu-Natal will be your province of choice. The verdant subtropical climate produces some of the lushest scenery in the country – and if you find yourself feeling a little overheated, there's always the prospect of a dip in the blue ocean to cool you off. "Natal is evergreen and has a tropical feel," confirms Nel. "The climate is always warm, with a high humidity. The countryside is similar to Britain – we already call the Natal Midlands 'the last British outpost'! "Natal is also a summer rainfall area and a true haven – the best province to holiday in as you will always have good weather and you are able to swim in the Indian Ocean."

Lifestyle activities in the area include exploring the ravine-pocketed coast, boating down the wide Tugela River and trekking in the Drakensburg mountains, which form the western border of Natal. Those more inclined to the good life can relax on one of the provinces white-sand beaches, or engage in some of the watersports on offer around the Durban coast. But where in Natal should you make your home? Many gravitate to Durban, the provincial capital, which is characterised by impressive skyscrapers and Florida-type beaches. It's a great choice if you prefer to be in the thick of things, but otherwise try exploring the KwazuluNatal coastline. It is dotted with small towns, many of which are recreational hubs and inevitably suffer less from crime than the big cities.

Heading north of Durban (the 'North Coast' as it's called colloquially), are Ballito, Umhlanga and Salt Rock, all attractive spots; while the 'South Coast' includes such gems as Margate, Port Shepstone, Scottburgh and Port Edward. Most of these towns are located in the midst of glorious tropical scenery and are within a stone's throw of the beach. But it isn't just the scenery which makes Kwazulu-Natal popular with immigrants. Many incoming families choose the province because of the excellent educational opportunities it offers to young people. Within South Africa's high jobless rate, Durban is also a hub of employment opportunities, and is usually in need of skilled migrants. Those concerned that they'll be moving to a sporting desert can also lay their fears to rest – Natal has top-class soccer, rugby and cricket teams which are strongly supported by most of the locals.

In South Africa, living in the midst of beautiful scenery needn't mean being cut off from the good things in life. It's easy to enjoy access to shops, banks, bars and activities while still enjoying the benefits of a scenic backdrop. What's more, it's possible to have it all at a price which many Brits can only dream of.

03 July 2007

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