Lifestyle and Leisure
West quest
Andrew Collier recalls his top five leisure experiences on the west cost of NZ's South Island
Adventure-seekers in New Zealand will definitely find that west is best when they arrive Down Under. The west coast of the South Island is one of the least populated parts of the country (2006 estimates put the population at 31,326) and is buffered by the snow-capped peaks of the Southern Alps and the frothy blue ocean. Settlements along the coast are sparse and often nestle peacefully in the shadow of magnificent peaks or otherworldly glaciers, but, as with all of New Zealand, the relative quiet masks a haven for adventure enthusiasts and nature lovers alike.
1. Franz Joseph Glacier
Named after one of the earliest explorers of New Zealand, Franz Joseph glacier has to be seen to be believed. As you approach from the village of the same name and begin walking up to the glacier itself, what starts off as a flash of white looms larger and larger until it feels as though you have stepped into another world. This world of ice tunnels, flat plateaus and man-made steps is accessed via a team of experts that carve their way through the ever-changing landscape and warn you of the vast black crevices waiting to claim expensive cameras from over-enthusiastic visitors.
Such is the temperature of the glacier and the fact that it is ever-changing; new routes through the ice have to be carved even after two hours on the ice. Several options are available to visitors of all dispositions, from a couple of hours on the glacier to a whole day and even a helicopter tour that lands at the top of the glacier and is a little harder on the pocket.
2. Fox Glacier
Twenty kilometres to the south, Fox Glacier is Franz Joseph's quieter, more sedate neighbour – if a glacier could be owned by the National Trust, this is what it would be like: a quiet town with peaceful hostels, friendly bars and restaurants and ponchos for sale. Fox Glacier is harder to navigate and unsupervised expeditions are not recommended due to the falling ice, but the glacier itself is equally as stunning as its flashier neighbour.
The village that supports the glacier is surrounded by enormous mountains that are frequently dusted with snow and are set off wonderfully by the twinkling lights of the village's shops and restaurants. Also in the centre of the village is the glow worm walk, an unassuming circular walk through a clearing that is populated by thousands of tiny glow worms lighting up the path with their green glow.
3. The TranzAlpine Train
This awesome spectacle is not strictly on the west coast, but finishes in Greymouth, one of the towns that cling to the rocky coast. It is an amazing spectacle, and one that is easily viewed from the comfort of a train carriage, meaning that it is accessible to less mobile adventurers.
The TranzAlpine is regarded as one of the world's best train journeys and sets off from the main station in Christchurch. The leafy, flat Canterbury plains then begin to give way to the awesome majesty of the Southern Alps. There are gorges, white water rivers, snowy peaks and dark tunnels that bring you out into Arthur's Pass, a small settlement set in the middle of the mountains and perfect for walkers and hikers. After this entire spectacle, the train draws up into the pretty little town of Greymouth and passengers pile off, exhausted from all the sights they have just seen.
4. Hokitika
A more sedate, but no less enjoyable time awaits visitors to Hokitika, a small town to the south of Greymouth. A strong arts and crafts scene and a popular wild foods festival are two big draws to this town and it is the perfect stopping off point between hiking trips, glacier walks and nature spotting. Hokitika is also famous for its clock that stands in the centre of the town and its extremely successful dairy co-operative. Visitors are also beginning to use the town as a base for eco-tourism tours, for which this coastal area is perfect.
5. State Highway 6
This is the main highway down the west coast of the South Island, not a thundering monolith as the name suggests but a comparatively quiet road that clings to the coastline and is either high up from the sea or has the waves lapping just metres away. Aside from the fact that all of the aforementioned attractions are on this route, it is also perfect for long road trips due to the many places to stop off and admire seals in the water, endangered birds flying overhead or for long walks in the national parks along the route. Queenstown and all its snowy and adrenaline-fuelled delights are at the southern end of the highway via Frankston. At the other end, the highway peaks at Blenheim, but a diversion before this part of the road leads up to the Kahurangi National Park, which has the largest amount of surviving native forest in the country.
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