Lifestyle and Leisure
Australia's Great Ocean Road
The Great Ocean Road is a route that hugs the coastline of Victoria. Catherine Deshayes tells us of her travel experiences on the road.
Renowned as one of the world's most picturesque coastal regions, this South West corner of Victoria, is a playground for the city dwellers of Melbourne. Stretching west from Geelong – Victoria's largest regional city – to the South Australian border, it boasts rugged cliffs, raging surf, tranquil bays, lush rainforests, towering rock stacks, historic villages and fascinating wildlife. Surfers, sightseers, swimmers and foodies will revel in the eclectic mix of activities, above, below, and away from the water.
Local wineries and organic food markets sell the very best local produce, and the well-preserved villages dotted along the peninsula boast a medley of gourmet seafood restaurants and casual eateries. Geelong – gateway to the Great Ocean Road and the Bellarine Peninsula – has undergone a renaissance in recent years, with the waterfront playing host to fine restaurants and landscaped gardens. With a view over spires and heritage rooftops, the city has much to see. The Botanical Gardens, just minutes from the CBD, has a collection of rare trees and plants, and a mix of post-modern and historic architecture. The National Wool Museum is also worth a visit, if only to see the original bluestone wool store it is housed in.
Queenscliff is one of the first must-sees on the Great Ocean Road. Marking the far eastern tip of the Bellarine Peninsula, it is a fashionable seaside resort now restored to its former glory. Tumbledown Victorian buildings have been transformed into boutique hotels, restaurants and art galleries. During the 'Marvellous Melbourne' era of the 1880s, the resort was known as the 'Queen of the South', largely due to its maritime history. The large military fortress guarding the entrance to Port Phillip Bay has been restored, and towers above golf courses, antique shops, spotless beaches and a tree-lined foreshore which sweeps majestically out to sea. The best way to see the town is via the horse-drawn double decker bus, which departs from outside the Vue Grand Hotel in the town centre. Queenscliff's safe, sandy bay side beaches are popular with young families, and children will love The Marine Discovery Centre on Weeroona Parade, which runs a range of snorkelling and canoe trips, plus rock-pool rambles and beach walks.
From Queenscliff, you can catch a vehicle or passenger ferry across Port Phillip Bay to Portsea and Sorrento on the Mornington Peninsula, or climb aboard a heritage train, which run from Queenscliff to the hinterland village of Drysdale. The railway hugs the water around scenic Swan Bay providing breathtaking views, before climbing through rolling hills to Drysdale. Distant views over the Corio and Port Phillip Bays add to the scenic splendour of the journey. Jazz up the journey and catch The Blues Train, one of Victoria's most enjoyable dining and entertainment experiences, with a barbecue served to the sounds of some of Victoria's best blues singers. This popular route runs throughout October, December, March and May.
Barwon Heads, a charming fishing village set at the mouth of the Barwon River, lies southwest of Melbourne. Famed for its wide, quiet river beaches and picturesque estuary, it is home to Victoria's longest wooden bridge, which stretches to Ocean Grove where you will find one of the best beaches in Victoria. Barwon Heads' Thirteenth Beach, a rugged sandy year-round favourite, is a Mecca for surfers. Another popular pilgrimage is to Bells Beach, the famous host of the World Surfing Titles. Renowned for its treacherous ocean swells, this is a must for the experienced boarder.
Meanwhile, animal lovers will adore the Ocean Grove Nature Reserve, which contains the only remaining section of substantial native bushland on the peninsula. Lying on the eastern bank of the Barwon River estuary, the Reserve is home to Red-necked Wallaby, Swamp Wallaby, echidna, koalas, 130 bird species, and ant blue butterflies. At night, possums, and bats come out to play. Nearby, on the Northern edge of Barwon Heads, The Jirrahlinga Koala and Wildlife Sanctuary has become renowned for rehabilitating injured and orphaned animals, and returning them to the bush. Jirrahlinga is an Aborigine word meaning 'seek a home for a kangaroo', and the sanctuary lives up to its name, with a small community of tame kangaroos.
Further along the coast sits Point Londsdale, a quiet village overlooking The Rip, the notorious entrance to Port Phillip Bay. This narrow outlet, where bay and ocean waters collide, has been the setting for many shipwrecks as sailors battled to navigate through one of the most treacherous stretches of water in the world. Children will love to explore the lighthouse and the neighbouring Buckley's Cave – named after William Buckley, an escaped convict from the British settlement in Point King, who hid here in 1803. Portarlington sits on the northern tip of the peninsula overlooking Port Phillip Bay. With fabulous views of the Melbourne skyline and the majestic granite peaks of the You Yangs, there is plenty to do in the shadow of the mountains and skyscrapers. Buy freshly caught blue mussels on the pier, swim on the attractive foreshore, or visit a craft market. Portarlington Mill, built in 1857, and the 1886 Grand Hotel are also worth a look to gain a sense of the area's history.
Accommodation along the Great Ocean Road is often a short stroll from a beach, a national park, or an award-winning restaurant serving up the catch of the day and local wine. With both coast and country as a backdrop for the region, wake up to the sound of waves crashing on the beach, enjoy stunning ocean views, or appreciate the abundant wildlife and tranquillity of a secluded cottage in the hinterland. Indulge in a little luxury and spend a night at the Four Points by Sheraton Geelong on the waterfront or for something more relaxed stay at a hostel near Bells Beach. Alternatively there is boutique-style self-contained accommodation on the beachfront in Lorne or Apollo Bay, or you could pitch a tent in the stunning Otway Ranges. If you fancy sleeping surrounded by Australian history, the recently refurbished Head Lighthouse Keepers cottage of Cape Otway Lightstation – dating back to 1857 – is the oldest surviving officially built lighthouse on the Australian mainland. Port Fairy also offers numerous B&Bs, from historic cottages to cosy inns.
On the stretch of coast from Princetown through Port Campbell to Peterborough are some of the world's most awe-inspiring rock formations – the Gibson Steps, the Loch Ard Gorge, The Arch, London Bridge (which, true to its name, is falling down), and the Grotto. Some lie close to shore while others rise from the seabed miles out. One of the world's most photographed natural phenomena is the Twelve Apostles. Soaring from the swirling waters of the Southern Ocean, these giant rock stacks are a central feature of the spectacular Port Campbell National Park. Sea spray and strong winds gradually eroded the soft limestone cliffs, creating arches, which, on their collapse, formed rock islands as high as 45 metres. The elements have now reduced the 12 to eight, which visitors can see from viewing platforms set on a neighbouring cliff. Dazzling at any time of day, the golden light at sunrise and sunset ensures the Apostles are witnessed at their breathtaking best.
To do justice to the Great Ocean Road, hire a convertible car and drink in the 260 kilometres of unspoilt coastline, rugged cliffs and crags and spotless sand. Towering above the crystal waters of the Bass Strait and the Southern Ocean are the forests and mountains of the Otway Ranges. The spectacular scenery jostles for attention with local history, wildlife and activities galore. Whatever your passion, the diversity of the region's natural environment cannot fail to suit all styles.
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